Is it tooexpensive for luxury fashion brands to cater for all sizes? Who pays the price?This essay will focus on the topics of luxury fashion brands, plus-size women in the fashion industry and the concept of beauty. It will look at the fashion industry and the barriers that currently face plus size women from accessing the marketplace. This essay will suggest that luxury fashion brands will not cater for plus-size women even if it would it would be beneficially more economical to do so, because they determine what beauty is and what beauty should be. It will do this by firstly exploring the luxury fashion industry and what is (or what it is not) on the market now for plus-size women. Then it will then look at fashion brands which market to plus-size women and what drove the recent shift towards this move. Finally, it will look at concepts of beauty and consider whether they fit in the current market for luxury fashion brands. What is luxury fashion?Is luxury fashion about quality? MargaretHowell, and Editor of the Guardian argues that “[g]ood quality rides over to everything” and “[w]e should respect whatit takes to produce something that is of a quality to last”. Therefore,some women have the view that luxury fashion is associated with fine materialsand craftsmanship. This is also the view of designers. For example, in a recentinterview with Sarah Mower OBE and Gvasalia Jr, the lesser-known half ofVetements, was questioned on why his brand’s hoodies cost customers almost£500. Gvasalia Jr, explained that:“There are a few reasons. One is that we work with amazing factories. These factories are not cheap. Another thing is the fabric. For example, the hoodies Demna likes to use molton cotton that is very heavy. It is almost 480g compared to the usual 240g. The price of creating this heavy cotton is double the price of creating a regular one”. But, the answer may be simple: more fabric, moremoney. There are a lot of steps taken in the product from the designer’s pen toyour closet, all of which get reflected in the huge price tag. First, there’sthe designer’s time, the hours spent deciding what would work best. From there,materials; in this case high-end moltoncotton. The luxurydesigner brands sell their garments to retailers at the high end of the marketand to cover the production costs and in order to still make a profit they’llsell them on for double what it cost to manufacture them. The stores need tocover their own costs too and need to make a profit so you can expect the priceto at least double for the consumer. Which means consumers are essentially,paying four times more than what the product cost to make. As each stage of themaking of the clothes and the time and expertise it takes to make a qualitygarment it means more zero’s on the price. This means that the customers arespending as much on a garment as they would on a for instance a holiday! In addition, prestigious brands may be moreconscious about damage to their reputations and using respectable supplychains, such as those promoting Fair Trade or those that pay the living wage(in any given country). Further, Gvasalia Jr may be implying that the locationof factories impact on price and it follows that countries withwell-established economies and relevant laws may carry heavier fees. However, many people only associate luxuryfashion with price and large profit margins for the top designers. Usuallyluxury is first associated to price, exclusivity and selectivity but when youthink about fashion, you think about time. A short time, short product lifecycle. To me luxury is not easy to define because it has a lot to do with whatthe context is, for some people having running water or a roof over their headis luxury but having worked in luxury retail such as Burberry and Vivienne Westwoodand having to deal with clients expectations, I have noticed that luxury tosome clients is about the designer name, to some its about the quality and toothers having the best of everything the world has to offer just because theycan afford it. If you think luxury means wealthy and over priced items only,then you have an old fashioned view of the meaning of luxury (Vogue.it 2018).Luxury does not also necessarily mean elegance. In the world of high qualityfashion, ready-to-wear is identified by its luxury symbol, but is it its brandplacement or business point of view. Franca Sozzani vogue editor said: “I think this term has been changing itsexclusive “richness symbol” meaning in time. As a matter of facttoday we can meet people who wear any kind of luxury symbol without“looking” luxury. They only look rich. Because today luxury involvesexclusiveness, nearly uniqueness, and not because it is addressed to fewpeople, because it’s special instead.” For an example there are dresses,which will really give you the feeling of luxury because of the way they havebeen made, it’s the quality of craftsmanship, but some expensive items withintricate work are just opulent. A product is luxury when it is handmade andits limited. Luxury meaning its exclusiveness. You could really get the feelingthat luxury still exists when you wear a tailored suit, related tocraftsmanship skills. Further, according to Business of Fashion magazine, rather thansettle for double profit, shareholders actually expect a margin of around 65per cent. This pricingis what makes luxury brands exclusive and more appealing – we want what wecan’t have.  It seems to be thenorm to raise prices tolock out the poor and make the wealthy want it. And, frankly, there’s nothing wrong with that. Thereal reason why luxury fashion is so expensive is because people are willing topay to have it. An example is a t-shirt costing £185 must, somehow, bebetter made than a t-shirt costing £40 or so people think. Even though all know,and the evidence says it’s not. You’re buying exclusivity, you’re paying forthe apparent prestige that goes with the designer name and are spending morethan other people, or being able to own something that other people can’t. AsGurum Gvasaila put it in a recent interview: “It is nicer when people save up. They can buy this one piece that theycherish for a longer time, rather than spending money on clothes every weekthat they throw away afterwards. The whole idea is to limit the production,having less pieces and making sure that people who buy these pieces can cherishit for a longer time. It’s moving away from this idea of fast fashion, to thisidea of slow fashion.” Just make sure that you know precisely what you’repaying for.But the question is how much does it cost tokeep up the appearance of affluence in the world of luxury. If you are wealthyenough, you can have whatever items you desire even though you may not evenneed or really want them. Whilst lower class people are not buying luxury itemsen mass, lower clothing prices (fast fashion) have made it possible for peopleto get the look of luxury on a budget. Mostly the conditions of labour in whichfast fashion wear is produced are unethical whereas luxury clothing is producedmore ethically. This means it makes the luxury clothing only affordable to therich who can afford to buy new classic ready to wear pieces each season withoutsacrificing fashion.The purchase of designer clothes has noprerequisite whatsoever other than the price tag. That is, you only need £1,200to buy a £1,200 dress – whether you have a £1,200 or a £2 Million pounds inyour bank. That’s it, it’s that simple. At what point does it make financialsense to buy designer clothing frequently? The answer to this is any time thatyou can afford it once your basic living expenses are covered. Since the pricesof luxury clothes vary so wildly it would be impossible to pin this down, sincethere are £300 luxury designer shoes and there are also £30,000 luxury designershoes. If your income can sustain the regular purchase of luxury items ofclothing, which you desire, then go crazy and buy as you please. There is nothing stopping you regardless of howrich or poor you are.Luxury fashion brands and plus size women In the UK it has been reported that 45% ofBritish women are a dress size 16 or more (Dahlgreen and Dahlgreen, 2018).However, many luxury retailers do not offer clothing in sizes above a size 10.Looking at brands such as McQueen, Chanel and Valentino that aesthetic ismissing for the majority of women. Plus size women have to actively search fornew brands and go out there and look for things to buy, but what if there wasan easy and simple solution to this, that is to pay extra for what you wantfrom the top brands? As  VivianHendriksz recently said in an online article: “populationwaistlines are only getting bigger – so perhaps it is time the fashion industrybegan paying more attention to their plus-size offering. Rising obesity inyoung people is said to fuel the 5.08 billion pounds plus-size market in theUK, a market which is set to continue growing, according to data from researchand consulting firm GlobalData.”Hendriksz’s position here is logical because ifthe average clothes size for a female is a size 14, it should follow that thereis a demand for larger sizes in luxury fashion brands. Gvasalia Jr, sets thisout in a recent interview stated that: “There’s a basic model you learn in business school. “It’s called supply meets demand. There are two curves and the point where they intersect is how much you are suppose to produce. It always feels like everyone is ignoring this very simple thing. Because if something goes on sale, it means it was overproduced. We are always trying to change the supply curve, making it just a little bit less than the demand curve, to make sure that you sell out. It is always better to sell one piece less to a store and to be sold out than to sell one piece extra and to go on sale. Because once you go on sale, there’s no going back.”As I have detailed, luxury fashion brands areexpensive and it is likely that you pay for the label as well as the quality ofthe material), although I would dispute this as a generalisation. That factthat the luxury fashion industry does not cater for plus size women, does notfollow economically given the most popular size of a women is 14+ and there is ademand. Is the luxury fashion industry therefore ‘sizeist’? The idea behind the business model of luxuryfashion brands I think goes hand in hand with the idea of beauty. For example,if you can afford to shop at Louis Vuitton, you have the figure that doesn’tchallenge the brand’s idea of skinniness as the norm. If plus size people shopon the high street in stores such as Evans or Simply Be, then their expectationis that something other than skinny proportions will be catered for. However,some people argue that the reason for this is because It is harder to create auniform fit because of the body variation above size 14, more so as plus sizeclothing requires production and design expertise and this cuts into marginsand increases the final price in many cases. But if luxury fashion brands claim it is too expensive to produce clothingin a plus size due to the amount of fabric required why don’t they use the samemethod of pricing that is used in children’s clothing e.g. an item age 4-5maybe £8 but the same item in age 8-9 could be £9 and age 10-11 would be £10and so on.Is it the cost of making the clothing in plussize or is it the fact that the luxury end of the market doesn’t want plus sizepeople advertising/wearing their clothing? From my research it looks like the plus size market is not aniche, negligible area of business. The average women’s dress size in theUK is 14 to 16 and yet they are not catered for at the designer/luxury endof the market. VivianHendriksz also said “as aresult, the plus size market constitutes 12.4% of all clothing sales andis worth in excess of £5 billion while a quarter of UK women have boughtplus-size clothing in the past year”. So for luxury brands to besqueamish about making pulse size and to venture into this highly lucrativearea of business suggests they are worried about the image it portrayed.Accordingto the report “What BritainWears: Niche Clothing 2011. The NHS’s Health Survey for England found that26.8% of women in the UK were either obese or morbidly obese in 2015, withobesity among 16 to 24-year-olds increasing sharply from 12.9%  in 2014 to 15.9% in 2015”. In most recentyears the Plus size clothing sales in the UK were about 15 billionpounds that’s about 15 % of the market. There is a disconnection here in thatthere is high demand but low sales. Retailers such as River Island and H&Mare missing out, as according to the plus size people I have spoken to, theseretailers struggle to get the fit and style right. This means plus size fashionclothing doesn’t sell well and when something doesn’t sell retailers stopinvesting in it which leaves plus size people disappointed. It would seem that retailersuse the same pattern for a size 8 and size 18 just adding more material insteadof redesigning the pattern in order that it will fit a plus size person. Thisleaves people having to start looking for other alternatives because the itemsthey are looking for don’t exist in their size. A famousplus size blogger/ body activist  BethanyRutter  said “No, it’s not even that I’ve found one that’s more than I want to spend.It actually doesn’t exist. As a UK 20-22, there are a limited amount of placeswhere I can shop”. Plus size people are left hanging and the only place that caters for theirneeds are stores such as Simply Be, Evans and Yours but these brands arelacking diversity and range. This has resulted in people such as Beth Ditto (singer)who is a size 22 to launch her own line of clothing. Bearing in mind Beth Dittohas ZERO experience in the fashion industry. As she said herself “It’s frustrating because the market is veryapologetic; there’s still so much shame involved. This idea that you’rebigger, but you’re not supposed to be: I want this to be positive”.  The problemis that when you make a statement in the plus-size world, it can attract thewrong sort of attention, designers are missing out by allowing non designers tocorner the plus size market and claim to be designers.  The Beth Ditto collection is now available atthe renowned luxury department store Selfridges, her collection ranges fromsizes 18 to 32. Does this makes Beth‘s collection a luxury alternative for plussize? I personally think not. Ditto also rolled out the collection with apresentation at New York fashion Week in 2017, saying,  “I wantit to be versatile, and to look good on every single body; it’s very fit- andshape-focused, and I wanted everything to be durable.” Ditto wants to filla void in the plus size market with her economical brand which ranges in pricefrom £45 to £273, why so cheap, why do people assume that plus size peoplespend less on clothing than the standard size woman again seems to be they onlycater for the lower end of the market. Also her collection starts from size 18,what about the people under the size of 18? I understand that they have choicesbut unless designers start catering for all sizes the result is collections made by plus sizepeople only for plus size people, this I feel is as bad as designers onlycatering for the smaller sizes.The worldof fashion has portrayed an image where women have been brainwashed to feelthat being above a certain size is unhealthy we only have to look on the frontcover of any women’s fashion magazines to see what some would describe as a‘malnourished looking’ model. But the question is, where are we in the world ofmodels, what is the healthiest body shape? We are slowly realising that we needmore diversity in the fashion industry, it would be nice to turn on thetelevision or to look in Vogue magazine and see plus size models wearing forinstance a Chanel jacket. It’s lookslike not only women above a size 14 find it hard to get the clothes they want inluxury brands. Apparently not even Ashley Graham (model/body activist) can havewhat she wants from the top designers for a cover of Vogue magazine. In December 2016, Alexandra Shulman the former editor-in-chief ofBritish Vogue said in hereditor’s letter for the January issue for Vogue that some of the huge fashionbrands they reached out to didn’t want to dress the famous body activist modelAshley Graham for their January cover because she was a size 14. She said “It seems strange to me that while the rest of the world is desperatefor fashion to embrace broader definitions of physical beauty, some of our mostfamous fashion brands appear to be travelling in the opposite – and, in myopinion, unwise – direction”. It looks like when top brands have an opportunity to make more money andsales, some brands only want to please a small number of customers because theyare not willing to celebrate the diversity. Alexandra thanks the famous fashion brand Coach, who was the onlybrand which supplied clothes for Ashley for the photo shoot, the formereditor-in-chief didn’t name any of the brands who refused to provided clothesfor the shoot. Alexandra Shulmanacknowledged that the fashion shoot was put together last minute, but thatisn’t an excuse for the fashion brands to turn down an opportunity to havetheir clothes on a Vogue cover.The words‘plus size’ are normally used for those who are size 16 and above, which meansAshley Graham who is a size 14, doesn’t even qualify as a plus size but shestill gets the backlash of being too fat and too skinny by others. Ashley isn’tthe only one, models get this all the time, some plus size brands refuse to usesome plus size models because they say that they are too skinny. In February 2016 the famous high street brandForever 21 launched their Forever 21 Instagram page for the plus size section of their clothing, thisangered a few of their followers due to the fact that they didn’t feel that themodels they used were plus size women. Daphne Howland (blogger) said “Everyone has an opinion, and it’s such anegative, negative environment, and it sounds sad, but they want to tear eachother apart.” Daphne Howland also goes on to say “as with all models in advertising, studies show that women actuallyprefer ads featuring thin models and say they’re more likely to buy clothingthan that shown in ads with what the researchers called regular-size models.” Ipersonally think is it not true and Daphne has zero evidence to prove this. Iwent onto Forever 21’s plus sized Instagram account to read some of thecomments from their angry followers, one follower commented  “Idon’t understand how this girl is plus,” and other follower wrote “That’s not at all plus size!! That’sridiculous! She is a great normal healthy size!! She is probably even smallerthan my size!!,” These Instagram users were angry that the models used werenot curvy women (plus size enough). Juliet Carnoy, Contributor /Senior MarketingManager wrote in an article for Huffington Post “When plus size women see photos of other women their size lookinggood in a particular brand’s clothing, they can better understand how thatbrand’s clothing will fit them. While many standard size women will often buywhat’s cute, plus size women place a greater emphasis on will it look good onme?” The authentic lens of customerphotos provides a reference point for plus size women, who typically aren’tgiven the privilege to touch or try on products in a store to buy withconfidence”.Iunderstand that nobody can have the perfect body shape, which is attractive toeveryone but we need to embrace different body types and be more honest andopen and discuss the issues more, not ignore and exclude certain body typesfrom the high-end world of fashion.A famousplus size model Tess Holiday (pictured left) said“Just because we’re plus size, doesn’t meanwe have to prove that we’re healthy, just as someone who is smaller than us oraverage size doesn’t have to prove they are healthy. We should be able to existin our bodies. I am technically healthy but my body is no more valid thansomeone’s who isn’t”. It lookslike every week there’s a new controversy surrounding plus sizes – a topic,which attracts unwanted opinions. Last year Facebook banned an advert fora body positivity talk featuring Tess Holiday, saying it violated theiradvertising standards for promoting an “unhealthy” image. “Ads like these are not allowed since they make viewers feel bad aboutthemselves,” a Facebook ad team rep said. “Instead, we recommend using animage of a relevant activity, like running or riding a bike.” I feel thatit is quotes and expressions of opinion like the one above that is actuallywhat makes people ‘feel bad about themselves’ and not open discussion. It istime that people had the opportunity to voice their opinion and frustrationsand to defend themselves against high profile individuals and companies and thediscrimination they often have to endure. Even theplus size brands refuse to use models of a size that actually represents theircustomers. Why is this the case? I feel that most of these plus size brandsassume that most plus size are in the process of losing weight and want to buyclothes for ideal body. This might be true but for most people, the reality isthat some people may not be able to lose weight due to medical reasons orpersonal issues. I have also noticed that retailers seem to discriminate by onlyemploying staff up to a certain size even in plus size stores. Is this becauseplus size people do not apply for such roles? I cannot believe this is thecase. I am sure that a more diverse workforce would further encourage women ofany size to feel confident in shopping, seeking advice, trying on andpurchasing clothes. Why do evenplus size brands refuse to use models of a size that actually represents theircustomers? I have noticed that television and magazine adverts for plus sizebrands seem to showcase their clothes on models no larger than a size 18 eventhough they stock up to size 32. They, like Forever 21, do not showcase arepresentation of all sizes by the models they chose to model their plus sizeclothes.Plus size models such as Ashley Graham are campaigning to change the world of fashion and women around the world are learning to love their bodies despite how the world media portrays them. In her TED Talk on YouTube Graham described her experiences within the fashion industry over the last 15 years and shared the empowering words she tells herself whilst looking in the mirror each morning. “You are bold, you are brilliant, and you are beautiful. There is no other woman like you. You are capable. Back fat? I see you popping over my bra today, but that’s alright. I’m going to choose to love you. And thick thighs? You are just so sexy you can’t stop rubbing each other. That’s alright. I’m going to keep you. And cellulite, I have not forgotten about you. I’m going to choose to love you even though you want to take over my whole bottom half. You’re a part of me and I love you.“ The model and body activist Ashley Graham also goes on to talk about self-acceptance and why the fashion industry should drop the plus size label. Ashley says that in the fashion industry, the term plus size starts at a size 12 and goes up to size 20, meaning that the majority of the audience she was addressing would be plus size. “I felt free once I realized I was never going to fit the narrow mould that society wanted me to fit in,” Ashley Graham goes on to say. “I was never going to be perfect enough foran industry that defines perfection from the outside in.”Speakingabout her difficulty growing up as a plus size, Ashley claims to have filledher life with parties and boys and she felt embarrassed when people asked herwhat was her occupation. Now, Ashley encourages her audience to practiseself-love and for them to be their own role model and to look in the mirror andto tell their reflection; “you arebold, you are brilliant, and you are beautiful.”The musician Beth Ditto said“I wish that peoplewould stop equating fat people with laziness, and with being unhealthy,” Dittosays. “I hope that will be reflected in fashion lines that cater to bigpeople.” It’ll take a major shift in terms of size discrimination (howeverovert or subtle) for plus-size fashion to really evolve, according toDitto” She further stated “There’s still this idea thatwe don’t exist, or that it’s only okay to be big if you’re pregnant orolder,” Ditto says. “That’s such an archaic idea to me! Especially assomeone who grew up as a big person — I would really like for that to goaway.”  Just likeBeth Ditto Ashley Graham launched a lingerie line designed for women with asimilar figure to her own (plus size). Graham’s collection was a success and combining the success with herbody activist campaign, Ashley Graham is now a huge power in the world offashion. Her body activist campaign continues to inspire a lot of people. Ashleygoes on to say “People really pour theirhearts out to me because they really feel like they are living this whole thingout with me,“ she told British GQ last year (2016). “They’re living out this wholebody-diversity, ‘love the skin you’re in’ (movement). And I’ve been hating theskin I’m in for so long. Finally there’s someone talking about the jiggle, thecellulite, the rolls, and it feels like they’re like me.”AshleyGraham doesn’t want to be categorised as a plus size by any fashion label. “When it comes to the word‘plus-size’, I’ve been called a plus-size model for the past sixteen years,“ she told Shape. ”I hear it, sometimes I say it – it’s a slip of the tongue. But atthe end of the day, it’s a label. You can say, ‘Yes it’s a negative thing’ or‘maybe it’s not a negative thing’…but why would we want to be labelledsomething? Why do we want to be put in a different category than all the othertypes of models? No one says ‘skinny model’, so am I wrong for not wanting alabel? I don’t think so.”As BethanyRutter (blogger) said “What we need,then, is not greater distance, squeamishness and ‘sanitisation’ around clothingabove a size 18, but an honest confrontation of the stigma and deliberateexclusion of women above a size 18. Resolving these issues will help me and myfellow plus size women more than pretending we’re just like thin women… yetrefusing to back this up when it’s time to shop”. Her vision for the future of this segmentof the fashion industry isn’t just about the range of clothes available — it’lltake a much more inclusive, less judgmental outlook on the plus-sizecommunity for things to truly be more equal for that don’t wearstraight-sizes. ConclusionIfsupermarkets can provide women’s clothing up to a size 24 why can’t luxuryfashion brands do the same? The supermarkets charge the same price for agarment in a size 10 as they do in a size 24. I assume this is due to the factthat they can stand the losses they may incur for any extra cost of productionas they are a supermarket and they can reap the benefits of attracting moreshoppers who will most likely spend money in other parts of the store. The samecannot be said for high street fashion retail outlets or indeed the luxury endof the fashion market. It seems they can produce a ‘petite range’ but not a‘plus size range’. If they did produce ‘plus size’ clothing this would incurextra costs for, at the moment, unknown rewards in sales/profit. Unlike Forever21 they do not seem to want to take the chance of trying this. Is the reasonfor this the cost of producing the clothes and advertising and marketing themor is it because they feel that in some way this may deter their currentcustomers from shopping in their stores. This couldbe why some high street fashion stores only sell larger sizes via their on linewebsites. This is not helpful to the plus sizes who would like the same servicethat is provided for women shopping in store, by seeing, touching and trying onclothes. As for the luxury end of the market, they do not even provide thisservice, it’s a case of ‘what you see is what you get’ they rarely offer anylarger sizes online and if they do they are not offered across all lines andare usually a very limited range of items. Using the excuse of costing and itnot being economical to produce larger sizes would not seem to wash as shopssuch as Evans, Simply Be and Yours manage to do this. As for the luxury end offashion, I simply cannot envisage them changing in the near future. Despite allthe comments and quotes above it appears they are still unwilling to even tryto expand their range to cater for anyone generally over a size 12.  In many other industries this would beconsidered to be discrimination.It wouldonly take one famous designer to have the foresight and confidence to produce arange of clothing specifically in larger sizes to break this ‘lockdown’ thatexists in the designer world. This clothing range does not have to be the sameas that made for smaller sizes but could actually be exclusively for plus sizesas it is not always the case that items produced in small sizes would suit plussizes by just being upscaled. I feel that they could produce a range ofclothing and initially use ‘plus size’ celebrities to advertise the clothes toprovide maximum publicity, which in turn could lead to plus size models beingmore accepted in the luxury end of the industry. As for the initial question“would women be willing to pay more for designer clothing” I think they would,if marketed correctly, and if they had a choice previously not provided forthem. This would be a step in the right direction in providing freedom ofchoice for all women.Bibliography ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV. 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